Tag Archive | "glass cutting machine"

Getting Started in Stained Glass – Step 1

If you're interested in getting started with stained glass. The first thing you need to do is to turn what the budget is that you want to spend. A good cutting tool should be your top priority. A good cutting tool is essential for any stained glass project. You can cut some costs if someone can donate their old cutters to you, but even if you need to go out and purchase some stained glass cutters they are usually a pretty reasonable price. I would start by getting a glass cutter instead of using a big industrial glass cutter. Start out with the old tried and true glass cutter with an oil reservoir. This great tool will be a cheap alternative to the big and expensive cutters on the market. Ok, besides the cutter and oil reservoir, you'll also need grozing pliers, breaking pliers cutting oil, and possibly some stained glass to test out your cutting. This can all be picked up at a arts and crafts store either online or offline. It is very cruel that you wear safety goggles when cutting glass. You may think its overkill, its always better to be safe when cutting glass.

Glass cutters do not work by actually cutting surface, they make a very fine score that begins the break. Getting a good score is key to getting a very clean break. I think the basic cutter with a straight shaft and oil reservoir is a good option. One example would be the models that are made by Fletcher. The oil keeps the wheel turning smoothly and ensures a clean cut .. This is essential to getting a good cut. Always ensure your cutting oil is right next to you so you can keep your cutter in pristine shape.

An important tip when scoring your stained glass is to keep the same glass cutter perpendicular to the glass. Tilting it back and forth will generally not make for clean of a score. When you push the cutter for make sure the apply a decent amount of force. In case you're wondering, you can move the cutter forward or back when scoring, that is all preference. Its very vital that you only score each spot once, do not score twice. This can cause problems to your wheel and the cutter, and you definitely do not want to damage a tool that you just spent good money on .. When you are all done scoring. The break the glass, grip the side you will throw away with the breaking pliers and grip onto the opposite side with the grozing pliers. Do not try to bend the stained glass into breaking, but more you want to try to pull the glass away from each other.

This first step is essential to you becoming a great stained glass artist. Just remember to keep practicing and it will get easier and easier. Make sure you keep the band-aid's close by!

Source by David Roth

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10 Things to Avoid When Cutting Art Glass for Fusing – Part 1

How to Make Your Glass Cutting Experience More Effective and Fun
Some people have learned glass cutting as part of an introductory stained glass or glass fusing class or workshop. Others have only learned the very rudimentary skills in a trial-and-error fashion, or by a friend giving them a few points and maybe (if you are lucky) a demonstration.

This guide is meant to give you some basic rules and guidelines to make your experience a lot more pleasant and successful. I am writing this based on my 25+ years of experience in working with art glass, both stained (copper foil and lead came techniques) and fused glass. I have come to love cutting glass. In fact, it is my favorite part of the process.

So, here is what NOT to do when cutting any glass , especially art glass:

  • 1. Avoid pressing too hard when you make the score in the glass. You will know you are pressing too hard because the score line will be a VERY visible "scratch" and you may even see tiny shards of glass flying away from the score line as you move your cutter wheel across the glass surface. Sometimes you can still break along such a score line, but the results are not very predictable. This is especially important when cutting some of the thin dichroic or other fusing glass.
  • 2. Also, avoid pressing too lightly when making the score. This will be evident in several ways. You will not be able to hear the score being made and / or the score line will be very faint, if visible at all. In thicker glass especially it will be very difficult to break along such a score or the break will not follow the score line and may veer off in a direction you do not want.
A good score will be visible, consistent, and will break easily. It will be made with a medium but firm, consistent pressure. I have found this easier to do using a pistol-grip glass cutter which is more ergonomic to hold. Also, by leaving my body weight into my score, rather than justing only on pressure from the wrist, I have had better success. Standing while scoring is recommended rather than sitting down, I have found.

  • 3. NEVER re-score over a line you have already scored. This is a definite No-No! When you do this, you not only ruin your cutter very quickly if you do it repeatedly, but you also run the risk of your glass not breaking well. By scoring more than once at the same place, the molecules became very "confused" (my term!) And do not follow the rules of breaking. Beside, a good glass cutter is expensive, so why make its useful life so short?
  • 4. Do not run your glass cutter right off the edge of the glass and make it go "clunk" as your cutter hits the table. It may sound kind of interesting, but it also will shorten the life of your cutter, and it is really not necessary. That brings me to the next point.
  • 5. Do not forget to start your score near one edge of the glass piece and end at another edge of the glass . This may seem obvious to the seasoned glass cutter, yet it is very important. Here is a clue about how close to the edge you need to start and finish your score. It does not have to be exactly at the corner of both edges. In fact, starting and ending your score on the top surface of the glass near the edge (within about a sixteenth to an eighth of an inch from the actual edge) is sufficient.
Thanks for reading this little guide. Happy cutting! For the rest of this guide (Tips 6 – 10), see "10 Things to Avoid When Cutting Glass – Part 2".

Source by Arlene Holtz

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Fun Hobbies That Use A Laser Cutter

Laser cutters are used to engrave products and cut materials like wood, plastic, and fabric. Different sizes and models of laser cutter machines are available to meet the needs of a business or individual. Some manufacturers of these machines boast a client base that spans multiple industries. There are various enjoyable hobbies that any of us can get involved in that make use of these devices. With a little education, some protective equipment, and some patience, we can master this art.

Common materials that can be cut with laser cutters include acrylic, cardboard, cork, fabric, leather, wood, and rubber. Engraving is made possible on these and many more materials, including painted metals. The result is a project that looks like it was created by a professional, complete with the most intricate details and shading. Depending on the type of machine used, the worker may need to hold down the material being used so it will not move during the engraving or cutting process.

Using a metal laser cutter to engrave a personal design for a metal sign or license plate cover creates a professional look. Acrylic and plastic can be cut into various shapes, including attractive snowflakes that make great holiday displays. Use these machines on brick, marble, ceramic, or granite to create intricate artwork that will serve as a kitchen backsplash or outdoor mural. With the wide assortment of compatible materials and the ability to either cut or engrave on some, there are so many possibilities.

Anyone who likes to sew or do leatherwork will find that laser cutters make their projects much easier. Create adorable shaped pillows and make varsity numbers and letters from scratch. If youngsters in the family have older siblings in the Girl or Boy Scouts that earn merit badges, make the little ones their own special badges for helping with household chores. These look just like the real thing, making any child feel more important for their contributions to the home.

These are just a few of the fun projects that look more professional when a laser cutter is used. Once the individual feels comfortable with the new skill, he or she can try engraving on mirrors and glass to create nice gifts or party favors. People with the most advanced skills can engrave on round surfaces, do 3D engraving, and even create their own models and awards. A tool like this becomes something that hobbyists will wonder how they lived without.

Source by Whitaker Perrets

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Home Security Tips

Here are a few tips to upgrade your home window security.

Windows, for whatever reason, are often overlooked when it comes to home security, and this boggles my mind. I mean really, a big plate glass picture window at ground level makes the whole smash and grab process pretty easy. Especially if that window is in an out of the way spot, or is not well lit.

So, short of putting bars across your view to the outside world-which by the way is definitely an option that does not have to be butt ugly-what can you do?

Make access to any window that is at ground floor level, or within about six feet feet from the ground, tricky to negotiate. Remember, burglars and vandals want to be in and out as soon as possible, and the less they have to impede them the better for them. And nobody likes to hurt themselves. So how about some cactus? Prefer something prettier? Most people know at a glance what a rose bush is, and they know about the thorns that adorn them as well. So even from a distance, someone scoping out an area for a possible break-in may discount that as an access point right away. Want to be a little more deceptive? I would not know a Hawthorn if I saw one, but apparently, from a home security standpoint, they are a great idea. This bush or hedge grows to about twenty five feet high. But those pretty pink and white flowers could blind a burglar to the danger that lies inside, because they come with thorns that are one to five inches in length. Anyone with half a brain would back away from that after getting too close and getting stabbed.

This gives you an idea of ​​some things you can do from a landscaping perspective for home window security. But what about the window itself? What can you do to make sure it's secure as possible?

First, the type of window you choose will have an impact on your home security. Despite the remark at the beginning of this article, picture windows are secure, since they do not open and most burglars prefer to be stealthy. So unless they came equipped with a glass cutter, the only way for them to gain entrance is to smash the window. As far as other types of windows go, vertical sliders, whether double or single hung, casement windows and awning windows are all secure, depending on how good the locking mechanism is. Horizontal sliders, those like patio doors, provide the least security, but again, a good lock could upgrade the window's security from poor to fairly good. However, the other types of windows mentioned are still a better bet.

And of course, if you want the maximum security for your windows, you can consider installing window bars. Depending on the application and design, they can actually look quite nice too!

Source by LJ Chadwick

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Glass Tile Backsplashes – This Can Make a Huge Difference in a Kitchen

Glass tile backsplashes have become very popular today. They can now be seen in most showrooms. Glass tiles are used not only as borders in bathrooms, but in kitchens as well. They can look awesome as a full wall in a bathroom or kitchen. Glass tiles are usually more money but if you get the right color combinations and design layout, it can compliment your kitchen and really make it pop.

Glass tiles normally come in sheets of 300mm x 300 mm or 12 inches x 12 inches. These tile sheets have a mesh backing to make it easier to cut to size and install. The homeowner must decide if they want a glass border in the backsplash, or have it all glass tile. You should definitely make sure to see the full sheet of tile before deciding on doing full height tile. As the expression goes "Less is generally more," when it comes to color and detail in a small space.

Glass tiles can be bought from Soho Studio Corp and many other places. You can go online for more information. On their website, you will see all kinds of designs. The longer pieces of glass in the sample give it a little more contemporary look. It is best practice to not have the countertop and backsplash looking busy. When you use glass tiles in a backsplash it is best to have a mostly solid color countertop.

With glass tile backsplashes, while there is more grout, it is usually easy to clean. Try not to use harsh chemicals like bleach when cleaning the backsplash. They may temporarily clean it but over time will dry out the grout, allowing grease and dirt to go deeper. Using bleach / Clorox will strip the granite's shiny seal, so be careful. If the granite looses its shine and seal, it becomes porous and you will see staining which unless you are very lucky is not removable.

Installing glass tile backsplashes yourself is not difficult . This can save time and money, as well as the disruption, of having strangers coming into your home. You could do a dry run first to see if you will need any tile cutters. By this I mean placing the tile in position, without glue, to see if any cuts need to be made. If you need a tile cutter it is possible to rent one. It does not have to be anything fancy and they are very inexpensive to buy. There is information on Do-It-Yourself projects, like this, online to guide you.

Source by Billy Coen

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Learn How to Make Stained Glass The Right Way – How to Make Stained Glass Step by Step

Learning how to make stained glass was something I chose to do because I needed a hobby and actually wanted to make a business out of it. People appeared to like my early designs that were not even great yet, so I thought what the heck, let's sell my stained glass art.

Then came the idea of ​​how to just get started. As with anything in life, starting something new brings along a learning curve. In learning how to make stained glass that learning curve can be expensive, a safety issue, and frustrating. Of course, I tried myself from a book, which was a huge challenge.

Before I knew it I was quickly learning how to make stained glass from an idea. The rewards of the finished product were exhilarating and as I honed my skills, people were asking for more!

So, enough about me, how can you learn how to make stained glass? Below are some steps you will need to take in order to get started.

Cutting tools you'll need – If you really want this to be fun, you need to learn how to cut the glass. I cut myself like crazy at first (because nobody showed me the techniques). Start out with what most stained glass artists use – a good quality glass-cutter with an oil reservoir. You'll also need grozing pliers, breaking pliers, some cutting oil, some scrap window glass and a box of Band-Aids.

You can find everything you need at a local hobby shop, glass shop, or you can do what we do and buy online (much cheaper). You could also search for used tools from people who have given up learning how to make stained glass.

Big safety tip – You must wear glasses. Do not take the chance of having glass shot into your eyes. This hobby is meant to be fun, not a hazard.

The glass-cutter does not actually cut glass. It is like the movies where burglars draw a line in the window they are breaking into. Then they tap it or nudge it to break along that line.
There are ways to hold the cutters and certain things you can use (like oil) to ensure that your cuts are accurate and safe.

Scoring – The next step in learning how to make stained glass is scoring. Try to keep the cutter perpendicular to the glass. Do not let it tilt left or right, forward or back. You will want to find a technique that works for you. This takes a bit of touch and there is a right way and wrong way to score.

Tip: Pressure is up to you. Look for a glass that breaks nicely. Ask when you are picking up your glass that you need something for a beginner.

Tip: never score the same place twice. You will not get the result you want and you can ruin your cutter this way. If you're getting a good score, you'll usually hear a slight sizzling sound.

Breaking the glass – Now, grip the side of the score you want to preserve with the breaking pliers and grip the part that you'll discard with the grozing pliers. Some people pull apart the glass and some people bend it to break. Whichever way works for you is what you go with.

Again this goes back to feel and touch. Dealing with glass is an art (since the term stained glass art) and once you figure out how to work with the glass, things will get more fun as we go.

Finally, have your shop set up – Make sure you have a good-sized workspace to work in and a waste-basket set up close. Learning how to make stained glass can get messy and crazy!

This is just a start in learning how to make stained glass. There are many books and courses written on this subject. We will certainly provide more steps soon as there is too much to cover in one article.

Source by Joe Collinsworth

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7 Types of Decoration/Techniques on Glass

1. Cutting

Glass is usually cut with a glass cutter, which controls the breaking of glass. But sometimes smaller glass can be cut by hand. Cut facets reflect light and create sparkle for special effect.

2. Enamelling

This method of painting on glass was popularized in 15th century Venice. Powdered glass was fused to a substrate by firing. This powder is hardened to a smooth coating when put on glass.

3. Gilding

Metals such as gold, silver, or bronze decoration are added to glass by firing gold onto a glass surface. This method was used by ancient Egyptians and Greeks.

4. Etching

Usually used on clear glass; acidic, caustic, or abrasive substances are applied on the surface of glass after the glass is blown or cast. It is essentially a process of dissolving glass with acid. This type of decoration goes not deep into the surface of the glass. Areas of glass that would not be decorated are protected using grease, wax, varnish, or tar. Then, unprotected areas are decorated with acid such as hydrofluoric acid for a frosted look. The longer the acid is left on the surface, the deeper the etching is. Afterwards, hot water is used to remove the residuals.

Originally, artists had to handle each piece separately, but later a way to mass-produce etched glass was developed. The artist would scribe the design on a steel plate, and the plate could be used over and over again.

5. Engraving

This method began around the 16th century. Tools such as diamond or hard metal were used to scratch the surface of the glass. However, at the time the method was limited since the artist could not make deep cuts or wide scratches; only surface decorations could be made. Later, kick-wheel spindle tools were used as a cutting device, in which abrasive liquid cut the glass.

6. Battuto

This means “beating” in Italian, and is a style of wheel-cutting. The surface is cut to produce innumerable small irregular markings running in the same direction.

7. Slumping

This is shaping glass by allowing it to sag through its own weight into or over a form during heating in a kiln.

Source by Milena MJ Kim

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Stained Glass Cutter 101 – Which Stained Glass Cutter Should You Get?

Stained glass kits are an awesome way to tap into your inner artist. But they do not work so good if you do not have a good stained glass cutter.

Here are some tips for choosing a glass cutter, for any budget, to help you make good accurate cuts in this burgeoning art form.

Option No.1: Pen-Shaped

For those on a budget pen shaped glass cutters are the best way to go. (Their cost is about 10-20 dollars.)

Perhaps the biggest downside to these is how they feel. For those with older hands, like me, these can be a tad difficult. (Basically if writing with a pen cramps your hand, then this kind of cutter might be a little tough.)

Pros / Cheap, very portable.
Cons / Not the easiest to grip, Can be somewhat imprecise with cuts.

Option No.2: Pull Out Your Pistol

The next standard in cutters is the pistol-shaped version. Most folks who are hard-core artsits in this field will use a cutter of this kind. The feel is great and your cuts can be really precise.

But these cutters are not ultra cheap. Coming in at a pricetag of 20-40 dollars this can be a bit more than most people want to spend.

Pros / super ergonomic; good cutting ability.
Cons / Not as cheap as a pen shape.

Option No.3: Step Into the Circle

When it comes to finding the highest quality glass cutter nothing beats a circle glass cutter. What are these? Cutters that operate on a swivel mount which you mount on your desk. There's no easie way to use a glass cutter.

Of course you have to pay some extra money for the convenience. And they also are a bit big and bulky. So they are not super ideal for taking over to your friend's house to work on some glass.

Pros / Excellent cutting; easy and simple to operate.

Cons / Not portable; spendy.

Source by Machelle Firth

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Butcher Chopping Block Is The Best Cutting Surface For Your Knives

When you are shopping for a cutting board, your choices range from high design glass “cutting boards” to large professional style butcher chopping blocks. Most folks buy based on esthetics, what they think professionals use, and most importantly, price. Keep in mind when shopping, that a butcher board made of wood will keep knives sharp longer than any other cutting surface and therefore is generally the choice of chefs and foodies alike. In this article I will share with you why wood butcher board is the best surface to cut on and which type of board construction is the absolute best.

So, why is wood better than any other surface for cutting?

Wood is soft. Unlike hard plastic, or worse….glass, a wooden butcher board yields to the knife blade. This not only allows the edge of your knife blade to stay true longer, but it makes cutting safer! When the blade grabs into the wood, it is supported from slipping, skittering, and bouncing. This keeps your fingers safe! It also aids in cutting all the way through your meat and veggies with steady and precise strokes. Do not worry about knife marks in your wood. That is what a cutting board is for! Also, these are easily sanded out if they become so numerous that they are unsightly.

The best wood construction for your knife is called “end grain”. A traditional style butcher chopping block is made with end grain construction. This type of butcher block is made of blocks of wood laminated together in a checkerboard fashion with the ends facing up. This is the best thing you could ever put your knife on. End grain wood fibers absorb the knife. They are self healing so that little damage is done to the actual wood. Most importantly, the knife keeps it’s edge longer. Butcher chopping blocks are traditionally the most expensive type of wooden cutting surface you could buy and with good reason. They are the most difficult to make. They are incredibly durable and made for heavy duty use. They will last lifetimes if properly cared for.

The next best wood construction for your knife is butcher board made with edge grain construction. You see edge grain most commonly in cutting boards and counter top applications. “Edge grain” construction is accomplished by laminating full lengths of boards together, edge up and lengthwise. With this type of construction your knife cuts across the grain. Over time edge grain boards will be damaged a little faster than end grain blocks and your knife may need sharpening a bit more as the edge grain surface does not give as well as end grain to the knife blade. Even so, edge grain cutting boards are much more forgiving to your knives than non-wood cutting boards. Just like with chopping blocks, proper care and basic refinishing will extend the life of a butcher board.

The last type of cutting board construction is face grain. Face grain refers to the “face” of a board rather than the edge or end. Usually you only see face grain in small single boards such as bread boards or cheese boards that are used as “show pieces” to serve on. This is because face grain is so attractive and it shows off the natural beauty of the wood species. Marring the surface with heavy cutting is generally considered undesirable. Cutting on face grain effects your knife the same as cutting on edge grain. With proper care these can also last a long time. My mother has a face grain butcher board that my uncle made in high school “shop class” in 1960. She still uses it for her french bread.

There are many cutting board options out there. However, when you are shopping, keep in mind that wood is better for your knives and safer for your fingers than any other surface. Wood is a renewable resource and it can be refinished to look like new. A well cared for butcher board will likely last generations. Buy the best quality butcher board you can afford and take care of it. Chances are you’ll be passing it on to your kids…along with your well cared for knives.

Source by Larinda J Sawyer

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How to Cut, Score and Break Glass

Glass can be cut into strips, geometric shapes, circles, ovals, curves and with a glass saw, almost any shape.

Some Things to Keep in Mind

  • Warm glass (glass at room temperature) cuts easier than cold glass
  • Work surface needs to be flat
  • Score on the smooth side of glass rather than on the textured side
  • Hold glass cutter in a vertical position as you would a pen or pencil
  • Do not use excessive pressure. Too deep of a score can result in a bad break
  • For protection, it's a good idea to wear glasses or another type of eye protection

Straight Cuts

When making a straight score, start scoring the glass from the point farthest from your body and pull the glass cutter towards you. Once a score line is made, use running pliers (if strip is at least 1 "wide) by placing the running pliers centered on the score line and gently squeeze the handles. score line. Or, hold the stained glass sheet over an edge of a table with the score line slightly overhanging the edge. hands using the same downward motion. Practice will make for perfection, soon.

Curve Cuts

To make a curved cut, use the glass cutter to cut off sections one at a time. This allows you to work into the curve. Glass likes straight lines or lines with gentle bends. If the shape has irregularities or small projections, these are easily removed with a nipper or glass grinder. In other words, do not rush the cut especially if it is an inside curve. Just chip away at it a little bit at a time.

Cutting Circles

Score the glass in the shape and size of the desired circle. Use a permanent marker to place a dot where you start scoring to avoid going over the starting point. Next, place the lined line side of the glass down on a piece of corrugated cardboard. Use light pressure and press along the score line until you see it run the circle. Then, turn the glass over to the side you first scored on and score several tangent cuts radiating out from the circle. Finally, break each tangent score line with breaking pliers. The circle should cut clean without any jagged edges.

How To Avoid Common Problems

  • Cutter wheel wears out quickly – Lift your cutter up instead of sliding it off the edge of the glass or cut on a surface covered with vinyl or carpet
  • Bad breaks after scoring – Too much pressure was applied on the glass cutter
  • Score line looks like dotted line – Cutter wheel is dull and needs to be replaced

Be sure to turn your pattern template over when you are tracing your pattern onto the backside of the glass where it smoother. Failure to do this will end up in wasted glass and lots of wasted time, not to mention frustration.

Source by Maureen Summy

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